(Photo Courtesy of Msgr. Gilbert Urbina/ Archdiocese of Palo)
PALO, Leyte– Despite modernity and changing religious expressions, the “Penitentes” of Palo, Leyte remain a powerful image of Filipino folk Catholicism. Their hushed footsteps on a scorching pavement and silent walk along the aisle of the Palo Metropolitan Cathedral strikes a contrast to the noise of daily life, a slow, meaningful, and prayerful reminder of the roots of Holy Week.
The all-male confraternity of the “penitentes” will once again feature in this year’s Holy Week observance of Palo town, whose tradition of making repentance has been passed from father to son, godfather to godchild, uncle to nephews, and continues not out of obligation but out of an unwavering belief that through penitence, humility, and devotion, one can be made whole.
Reynaldo Pedrosa, 58 years old of Luntad, Palo, said he joined the “Penitentes” when he was about 20 years old. He has not missed the Holy Week ritual since the late ‘80s and now his son and nephews have also become members of the Penitentes.
For many, joining the ranks of the Penitentes is a deeply personal vow—made in gratitude for prayers answered, or in petition for healing, forgiveness, or deliverance.
To deter the faithful from flagellating during Holy Week, this custom was instituted under the Spanish occupation through Franciscan Fray Pantaleon de la Fuente in the late 1800s. The penance seekers are garbed in long robes and wear cone-shaped head pieces that cover their faces and are either pointed (“tais”) or blunt (“dupol”) which has earned the group the name “Tais-Dupol” of Palo.
The ‘tais’ and ‘dupol’ headpieces carry distinct meanings within the group. Married members don navy blue robes with pointed hoods, signifying their status while the unmarried members wear violet or deep purple robes with black, blunted hoods. Officers or senior members distinguish themselves by wearing all-white robes with pointed hoods.
With this garb, the men are stripped of their identity, pride, and ego. Their anonymity is part of the ritual – an act of penance by the willingness to walk in humility and atonement.
On Holy Wednesday, new members joining the Penitentes undergo a solemn investiture ceremony and are given their special robes at the Palo Metropolitan Cathedral.
When the Lenten season starts, members actively participate in the preparations and join the Station of the Cross done seven Fridays before Palm Sunday. Their commitment to church preparations continues until Easter Sunday.
The reenactment of the “Washing of the Feet” on Holy Thursday, the adoration of the Cross on Good Friday, and the Station of the Cross on Black Saturday are the highlights of the group’s services.
The local government of Palo will also highlight the Penitentes this year in the GUGMA Art Exhibition, where miniature figures of the confraternity will be featured, inspiring tradition among the younger populace through art.
For Palo—a town known for its deep Catholic roots and being the ecclesiastical seat of Eastern Visayas—the Holy Week is not just observed, it is embodied. The Penitentes represent the people’s way of physically entering the story of the Passion, of feeling the weight of the cross not just in thought, but on their shoulders.
(ACR/PIA Leyte)
